...follow along as we travel the world



Jul 26, 2009

Tanzania Safari, Part 1

Kichizi Coma Ndizi

As we bounced along the bumpy dirt road, dust was flying in the air and filling our Land Rover. Along with dirt, anticipation filled the air as we embarked on our 8 day safari that would lead us through four National Parks in Northern Tanzania.

Joining us on safari was Cody (Dustin's brother), Mary Lou & Ashley (Dustin's aunt & cousin), Fido (our guide), and Moody-G (our cook). Hoping to give everyone a glimpse into our journey which brought us through Kenya and Tanzania, we've narrowed down a list of "highlights" ranging from close calls with Somalia camel herders, defining moments at the squatters for our "new arrivals", jaw-dropping viewings of a pride of lioness & cubs surrounding its prey, and close encounters with young, aggressive male elephants.

So, let us take you through the arid desert, lush jungles, and high onto the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater, but for this one Dustin and I are sitting it out (or as some might say "passing the buck") to Ashley, who graciously accepted the daunting task of compiling all of the amazing experiences we had in the last week into one hilarious story after another...Enjoy!

Karibu to Africa!
Over our 8 day safari the five of us experienced and saw many amazing and fascinating things. We couldn't have had a better introduction to Africa. We set out from Nairobi, Kenya to Arusha, Tanzania in a small van. The roads weren't really roads. There were many "throw-you-out-of-your-seat" bumps and innumerable pebbles, rocks, and boulders. We were just about to hit the Kenya-Tanzania border when we spotted a huge herd of camels on the side of the road. Thinking this was pretty cool we asked our guide to stop so we could jump out and take a picture. Dustin, Cody, and Mom got out of the van and started snapping pictures. The next minute is a blur. Cody all but catapulted into the van, followed by Dustin. All I saw was an old Somalian man wearing cloth draped over his body running top speed and shaking his stick around with a big long spear. He and the camel-herding men he was with started yelling what sounded like pretty harsh words as he continued to poke his spear into the window. At this moment I realize Mom is not in the van. She's still behind us taking pictures. Cody is in the front of me yelling "Get in the van! Get in the van!".  Mom finally trots back to the van totally oblivious to whats going on.  Cody and I all but pull her in by her belt loops as Cody yells "Get in the van!" one more time and slides the door shut like his life depended on it...which for all we knew it did.  As this is happening our safari guide, Fido, is attempting to speak to the Somali camel herder who is demanding money for the pictures. We're anxiously awaiting take-off before we get speared with the stick, but all our eyes dart to our driver's seat and it's empty. Frantically, we search for our driver only to find him peeing off to the side, staring over his shoulder with a smile and quizzical expression. He tries to make his way back to his door, but the Somali man's comrades are blocking his door. So, Fido tells them to come to his side and he'll pay them, which he does. As he reaches into his pockets for the more money they demand, he exchanges a mischievous look at our driver and BAM! our van peels out and leaves the men behind.

Cody breaks our dazed silence with "I'm not comfortable anymore." Which the rest of us find hilarious after his original proclamation five minutes earlier..."I am comfortable anywhere!" After recovering from the shocking encounter we begin to find the whole camel incident the most amusing thing we've seen so far. A little while later we safely make it to our hotel and, as far as we can tell, the Somali man didn't stalk us on his camel...we then headed out for supper at Khan's - an auto body store by day, Indian BBQ restaurant by night.

Karibu (Welcome) to Zion Campsite...
Which is worth mentioning, as this was where I was first exposed to the ominous squatter toilet - a porcelain hole which would pretty much become our "staple" relieving hole for the next 8 days. I knew the squatters and I weren't going to be good friends the first time I used it. I could hardly squat, balance without falling, pull my clothes out of the way, and hold toilet paper. So Rachel, being a veteran, held my pants for me so I'd have one less thing to worry about...though she "ran" away with them- only to leave me standing in the stinky squatter. I'm proud to say since that day I've become a squatter pro. It even came to the point that I could say without doubt "I'd pick that last squatter over this one." I can't even count the number of pictures the five of us have taken of our African "porcelain throne".

Day 1: "Look! A dik dik!"
Holy animals! The first day far surpassed our expectations for the wild game we'd see. Too many to mention- enjoy the pictures (coming soon). Elephants galore. We even had a herd surround our vehicle and the young male elephant charged at us...no injuries thankfully. There were zebras and wildebeasts everywhere which "loved each other" according to Rachel...who would say this every time we'd drive by a herd. These animals were always found together since the zebras had the best eyesight and wildebeast had keen ears. Don't be surprised if Rachel and Dustin dress up as a wildebeast and zebra for Halloween in the near future- you'll be sure to hear Elton's "Can you feel the love tonight" exuding all around them.

Day 2: We'll take a bush any day...
We spent the morning game viewing at Tarangire and had lunch back at camp. We packed up and headed to Mto Wambu or as I refer to it "Mosquito City". We all decided to take showers and with only 4 shower stalls I was odd safarian out- but boy was it worth it! For the next 15 minutes I listened to musical showers...let me explain. When you turn that shower faucet on you never know what your going to get. Cold, colder, forget-it-cold water, warm, warmer, scald your skin hot water. A small stream trickling through a needle or a full on Victoria Falls cascade. As I listened to Cody brag about his warm shower, Dustin's sounded favorable as well, Rachel hadn't complained yet, mom is in the last stall yelling "Shit! It's cold! Shit! Ooh, Argh!" As I strategically planned which shower I'd take, Cody yelled "Hey where did the water go?" Dustin is in the next stall laughing, clearly enjoying his nice warm spray. Cody starts fiddling with the faucets and his shower is back on at full force. Dustin is left to squat under the trickle coming from his faucet. Rachel joins in the game and, as they tweak their faucets, the shower water magically appeared and disappeared from stall to stall. And lets not forget mom who, after hearing how nice everyone's showers are, is now swearing at the other three for their luck with hot showers. This whole time I'm taking dirty clothes from them, handing new clothes in and trying not to drop anything as tears roll down my cheeks from laughing so hard. Everyone was done by the time it was my turn to shower. I enjoyed a nice luke-warm shower with good water pressure. As they say "Save the best for last."

Day 3: Pruning Dustin's beard
Fido told us if we wanted to see a rhino at Ngorongoro Crater Dustin had to prune the woolly mammoth that had been taking up residence on his face. We didn't want to chance it so Dustin was able to pony-up a scissors and mom went in for the shearing with some help from Fido. After the downsizing, Dustin went back to being Rachel's night in shining armor with a little less fur. We set out for the drive down into the crater and spied three of the Big 5: Lions, Cape Buffalo, and elephants, as well as tons of other wildlife. We made it back up to the rim of the crater for dinner and experienced one of the BRIGHTEST highlights of our safari. There, in our campsite, about 10 feet away from the 5 of us were 2 huge bull elephants. They had meandered up out of the crater to drink from the camp water tank. For a long stitch of time we watched the show in humble silence as the bulls moved away from the tank only to clash tusks giving us quite a show. PS-as the elephants were drinking a lady came out of the bathroom which happened to be 10 feet or less directly behind the elephants. The look on her face = priceless.
 
Other friendly animals visited us at camp as well. Zebras walked where they pleased - quite close even! As we thought the circus show had wrapped up for the night-Dustin and Cody spied something on our way to the ritualistic bedtime bathroom stop. Flashing his headlamp up and down the bushes only 20 feet away Dustin spied two glowing eyes low to the ground. As we continued to watch, the eyes ascended and with a head-on view there were 2 huge water buffalo-reputed to be the most dangerous of the Big 5. Mom and I got the heck out of there and yelled at the boys to follow. But, if you know Dustin & Cody at all, you'd understand why they had to get "the" picture first. The camera shutter closed and we were once again making our way safely to the African porcelain toilets.

Day 4: One more dirt shower please...
We headed out of our circus campsite on our way to the Serengeti. Let's be clear here. Everyone should expect to get dirty on safari, even the khaki cargo pants, packable breast-pocketed vest and green safari hat won't keep you safe from the dusty, dirty, grimy shower that awaits you back at camp. With the top of our vehicle completely open to the sky and our windows rolled down to let some "fresh" air in, the dust is wafting in like a skin-staining incense. As I try to "man" up and take the dust right in the face I exchange a glance with Mom & Rachel...too funny. Mom has her jacket over her nose and mouth like a gas mask and Rachel has an all-purpose old gray t-shirt strip shanghaied around her head over her nose and mouth and up around her head again. Even with the best efforts we were covered with a nice coat of grim (down here it could be "the" style - feel free to ask us to bottle some up and bring it home for you. I'll give you a good price).

Even with the dust, the Serengeti didn't disappoint. Fido got us prime viewing of lions in zebra-devouring action. Two lionesses and one large male breathed heavily as they rested under a tree with their share of the meal. In the background three other lions were pulling and yanking on a slab of zebra. One of these was a small cub who was going at it like he had never tasted zebra before. His entire face was bright red as if someone had very poorly applied the brightest hooker shade of lipstick they could find. As if that wasn't enough Fido found us four of the "Big 5" within minutes. We finally spotted - no pun intended- our first leopard who was lazily sleeping in a tree. As we drove back to camp we played audience to a herd of 60 elephants lining up single file to cross the road. Back at camp the night ended pleasantly with a nice cool shower. I flashed back to all the crazy things I'd seen that day as that African skin-staining incense circled down into the shower drain. I was back to clean skin! At least for the night.

Pictures and Part 2 to follow in a week....

Jul 14, 2009

A Collection of Random Thoughts on SE Asia

(Note: We actually just arrived into Kenya this afternoon but didn't have the chance to publish this post before we left Bangkok. We were too busy having a wonderfully relaxing time at the posh Radisson Bangkok.)

As we prepare to leave Asia we've been spending a lot of time reflecting on the last few months we've spent here. Since leaving Australia 2 1/2 months ago we've had one amazing experience after another...traveling through Singapore, Nepal, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam.

So, here's a list of a few of our random Asia thoughts and experiences...

  • Street food: We've made it a point to eat at least one meal, usually two, from street stalls each day. We always searched out places full of locals and avoided the restaurants geared towards tourists. If it was full of tourists, that was a pretty good sign the food was average at best. Most of our favorite meals have cost between $1-2 and involve eating something we can't fully identify while seated elbow to elbow with the locals at little plastic tables on the sidewalk.

Rachel enjoying BBQ chicken livers with chili sauce in Cambodia:



  • Breakfast: The one Asian meal we didn't embrace was noodles or rice for breakfast. We would usually search out a western place for toast, eggs, coffee, etc. But, after breakfast, there was nothing we wouldn't try.

  • No matter where we've been, or what language is spoken, everyone answers their cellphone with "Hello". And everyone has cellphones, it doesn't matter if you're in a remote village in Laos or in the middle of the Himalayas...there's people talking on cellphones everywhere.

  • Our favorite Asian cities: Namche Bazar, Nepal; Amed, Bali; Luang Prabang, Laos; Hoi An, Vietnam

  • People: The Asian people, especially in SE Asia, have been wonderful. No matter where we went, the people were friendly and excited to help us with whatever we needed. We found one of the best ways to meet locals was at the street food stalls or the local resturants. They always got a kick out of watching us crazy westerners try their regional delicacies.

One of the many great locals who kept us well fed:

  • One of the highlights of Asia, along with the excellent food and the great people, were the markets. Every town and village had at least one outdoor market selling everything from fresh produce to cheap clothes and local crafts. Once you get out of the major cities, there are no large shopping centers so everyone does all of their shopping at these markets. It's always a great place to get a feel for an area and find some delicious, cheap food.

Dried squid and fish at a market in Thailand:

Fresh fruit stand in Laos, full of delicious tropical fruits: (Dustin's favorite: Mangosteen, Rachel's favorite: Mango)

  • To our amazement neither one of us got even remotely sick in Asia. We ate some strange things, crossed our fingers, and hoped for the best...somehow it always worked out. Let's hope our good fortune continues into Africa.

Dustin trying "balut", a hard boiled egg with the chicken partially developed inside, to the delight of the locals:


  • Animal lovers...here's a list of all of the different types of meat we've eaten since we arrived in Asia. (These are the meats we could identify, there were also a few mystery meats consumed)
  1. Beef
  2. Pork
  3. Chicken
  4. Water Buffalo
  5. Wild Boar
  6. Goat
  7. Yak
  8. Kangaroo
  9. Ostrich
  10. Duck
  11. Crocodile
  12. Fish
  13. Shrimp
  14. Squid
  15. Snail
  16. Grasshopper
  17. Snake
  18. Maggot
  19. Ant
  20. Silkworm
  21. Frog
  22. Crab

It's almost like a list of animals you would see at the zoo. The one meat we didn't try was dog (as far as we know). It's fairly popular in Vietnam, but we never saw it for sale anywhere and didn't seek it out. Rachel said she wasn't going to try it, Dustin was undecided...

Typical menu in SE Asia. So many interesting choices....

Asia by the numbers:

  • 7: Number of countries visited in Asia
  • $8: Average accommodation cost per night
  • $1.25: Cheapest accommodation cost (In Nepal)
  • 5: Most people seen on one scooter (In Vietnam)
  • $7: Average cost of a 1 hour massage
  • 20: Pounds lost between the two of us during two weeks of trekking in Nepal
  • 19: Hours of longest bus ride
  • $1: Average cost of a plate of pad thai

Jul 9, 2009

Cambodia

With only three days left until we head to Africa, our time in SE Asia is coming to an end. Over the last week we have travelled from the beaches of central Vietnam, south to Saigon, and west into Cambodia. The highlight of this whirlwind stretch was definitely the Temples of Angkor.

North of Siem Reap, Cambodia there are dozens of temple complexes built between the 9th and 12th centuries. Crumbling ruins covered by trees and vines dot the surrounding countryside just waiting to be explored. The astounding Angkor Wat with its huge moat, magnificent towers and intricate carvings exudes an 'other world' feel.

We spent a few days exploring the ruins...our first day we took a tuk-tuk between temples, covering a lot of ground and seeing most of the ruins. Our second day proved to be more relaxing when we rented bikes and ventured out on our own, taking our time to explore a couple of the more remarkable structures.

Our favorite temple was Ta Prohm, made famous by its role in the "Tomb Raiders" movie. As we climbed around and through the dark, damp passageways it was hard not to pretend we were in an Indian Jones film.
Right now we're back in Bangkok celebrating our anniversary and Dustin's birthday. For the big occasions we've decided to splurge and spend $50/night for a room at the Radisson. (Besides our three days in Singapore, we haven't spent more than $16/night on accommodation the entire time we've been in Asia. Granted, most of our rooms were on the dirty and bug-infested side than the clean side...)
Anyway, we're looking forward to a clean, comfortable place to stay for a few nights. We'll have luxuries we haven't had in awhile such as AC, hot water, a comfortable bed, cable TV, and hopefully no bed bugs. We will also enjoy some "real luxuries" like a pool, sauna, steam room, jacuzzi, fitness center, and swim up bar. Once we get there we may never leave our hotel again.

Jul 7, 2009

Leaving on a Jet Plane...

...now we know when we'll be back again.

We just bought the tickets for the last portion of our trip. On December 13th we'll be flying from London to New York City. We'll spend a couple of days there before flying to Lima, Peru. After three weeks in Peru we'll continue on to Chile. The last month and a half of our trip we'll keep our compass pointed to 180 degrees, traveling south through Chile and Argentina to the southern tip of South America.

As you may have noticed from the change of dates on our itinerary (shown on the right), we've decided to extend our trip by almost two months...so much for our year-long journy. We've been having such a great time, traveling has been much cheaper than we thought, and we have so much we still want to see, we figured there's no reason to rush. (Sorry mothers, but we promise we'll make it home...eventually.)

Jul 3, 2009

Racing Through Vietnam

Since our last post we've been busy covering a lot of ground...

After leaving Luang Prabang, Laos we hopped on a flight to Hanoi, Vietnam. We spent 2 days in this busy, chaotic city alternating between exploring the streets of the old quarter and hiding out in air conditioned cafes to escape the sweltering heat and humidity. The rains of the rainy season haven't shown up yet to cool things off, so we've been stuck with ridiculously high temps and humidity since we left Thailand.

Rachel trying out a new profession.
After Hanoi, we had planned on heading out to Halong Bay and up to Sapa, both of which are "must-see" tourist destinations. However, when we heard news of a cyclone off the coast of Malaysia producing waves in southern Vietnam plans quickly changed. We hadn't planned on surfing in SE Asia, but we are on a "surfari" so we decided to chase the swell. Plus, if there was a chance to surf in Vietnam we had to at least scope it out. We caught the bus going south that night. After 18 hours we arrived in Danang. To our amazement we saw someone surfing a fun little pointbreak as the bus arrived into the city. By the time we dropped our bags off at the nearest hotel it was too dark to surf. Extremely eager to get in the water, we awoke early the following day only to find the swell had died. After renting a scooter to search for surf it became clear we had just missed the end of the swell...we were one day late.

When it's 100 degrees and there's no surf, the only thing left to do is have a drink with the locals...

This is what you get when you go to a Vietnamese restaurant and can't read the menu. They were some type of snail thing. We finished the whole plate and neither of us got sick.

Even though we didn't surf, our stop in Danang was worth it. Our search for surf brought us to Tam's Pub & Surfshop...here "surfshop" means there's a couple of old boards in the corner for rent. Tam was an interesting Vietnamese lady who had acted as an interpetor for the US soldiers during the Vietnam War. We spent the afternoon with her eating chili-fried anchovies and getting schooled about the realities of the war.

After our lesson in history, we continued south to Hoi An. Hoi An's colonial architecture and laid-back vibe created a charming, relaxing environment compared to Hanoi. Along with having some excellent food, tailor-made clothing is what Hoi An is known for. Since Rachel studied textiles in college she was excited for the opportunity to have custom-made clothes created using fabrics she selected. Over the past 4 days we've been running from tailor to tailor in search of the right fabrics. Most of the tailors were equal in their abilities to sew and construct garments, the underlying difference appeared to be in finding a quality fabric. In the end Rachel was pretty satisifed with the finished garments. Dustin even got into it and had quite a few things made.

Dustin:In my defense, I hate shopping back in the U.S. Clothes are expensive and it takes forever to find something, especially pants, that fit properly. Here in Hoi An you walk into a shop, pick the fabric you want, show them a picture of the style, have your measurements taken, and 4 hours later you come back to pick up your perfect fitting pants. If they don't fit exactly how you want you go get a beer or two and come back in another hour. They are always perfect by the second time and the whole thing costs you $14, including the two beers you had while waiting for the refit...a much cheaper, more enjoyable experience than in the U.S.

Getting measured for one of her custom dresses...
Hoi An at night:

Realizing our time in SE Asia is almost over we caught another bus and headed south for 19 hours...our longest bus ride so far. We are now in the small beach town of Mui Ne, just a few hours from Saigon. Since we are short on time we are heading to Saigon in two days, followed by a few days exploring Cambodia's Angor Wat, and then back to Thailand. Hoping to get some relaxing in, we're hurrying to get back to Bangkok so we can spend our anniversary (6 years) and Dustin's birthday (29 years) enjoying some much needed pampering at the hands of expert Thai massuses.